Little is known of the early history of Cambodia, although there is evidence of habitation in parts of the country as far back as 4000BC. Much of Cambodia is strewn with staggering artefacts of the dynasty that ruled throughout the 12th and early 13th centuries, based at the famous temple complex of Angkor Wat. These temples are regarded as some of the most astounding architectural creations worldwide. Large and intricate balustrades, pillars and causeways loom out of surrounding jungle. Yet these monuments are also a wistful chronicle of Cambodia's comparable fall into ruin: by the end of the 15th century, Angkor had been abandoned. Cambodians have also regained pride in their country, which is as beautiful as it ever was: for the traveler who seeks it, there is sprawling jungle, verdant fields, snaking rivers and golden beaches. Cambodia remains afflicted by poverty and authoritarian regimes that hide behind the veneer of democratic practice but for those who dare believe in it, there is also hope.